Jacquemus Fall 2026 RTW

Words by Juan Eckersley
Images via Gorunway

Jacquemus returned to the Musée Picasso with a collection that felt charged with memory and reinvention, a conversation between the power of Paloma Picasso and the designer’s own desire to chart a new path. The setting carried the weight of history, yet the mood was electric, shaped by Simon Porte Jacquemus’s fascination with strength, sensuality, and the sculptural lines of mid century glamour. It was a shift from the softness of his previous season, trading Provençal nostalgia for something sharper and more cinematic.

The silhouette anchored the collection with a precise midi length tailleur. Jackets curved neatly at the waist, shoulders opened through raglan lines, and skirts flared gently from structured basques that framed the hips. Extravagant hats added height and theater, yet the clothes retained their clarity through clingy knits and fluid dresses that hugged the body with effortless allure. Velvet intarsia, bold polka dots, butter yellow jersey, and looped fringe offered moments of expressive texture.

Menswear arrived with a winking sense of play. Smoking jackets met boxer like shorts, and blousons sparkled with tiny multicolor dots that sprouted feathers. Eveningwear resurfaced through a white tuxedo jacket with asymmetric lapels that hinted at aquatic forms. The finale recreated a Helmut Newton’s iconic Paloma Picasso photograph, reminding the audience of fashion’s ongoing dialogue with art and desire. Fall 2026 felt like Jacquemus stepping deeper into his own history, shaping it with confidence and imagination.