Schiaparelli Spring 2026 couture

Words by Juan Eckersley
Images via Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli’s Spring 2026 couture presentation opened with a sense of theatrical electricity, shaped by Daniel Roseberry’s desire to claim his place within a rapidly shifting couture landscape. With new creative directors stepping into the houses of Dior and Chanel, Roseberry approached this season as a moment to reaffirm his voice. A recent trip to Rome, and his first encounter with the Sistine Chapel, ignited his imagination. He spoke of the contrast between the chapel’s controlled walls and the explosive energy of its ceiling, a release that became the emotional engine of the collection.

That feeling of release appeared in silhouettes that embraced tension and drama. Razor sharp tailoring mixed with fantastical forms, from spiked jackets to sculpted bustiers that curled like living creatures. Roseberry leaned into animal motifs with bold conviction, honoring Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist heritage while expanding it into something darker and more magnetic. Winged shapes emerged from dresses, and feathered pieces blurred the line between garment and apparition. Roseberry has an uncommon instinct for proportion. He knows how to push volume without overwhelming it, how to create tension without sacrificing elegance, and how to make drama feel grounded in craft.

What struck me most was how clear it has become that Roseberry deserves far more praise than he receives. His work has been consistently brave and beautifully articulated, and it feels as though the world is finally beginning to look his way. Spring 2026 revealed a designer not just creating couture, but expanding its emotional language with sincerity and vision.