Khaite Spring 2027
Words by Juan Eckersley
Images via Khaite
For Spring 2027, Catherine Holstein seems ready to loosen up the Khaite woman. Presented at the Brooklyn Storehouse as the brand reaches its tenth anniversary, the collection felt noticeably less slick and perfectly composed than what we have come to expect from Khaite. Even before the show began, there was a playful hint at this change in attitude, with guests given water bottles wrapped in “Khaite Beer” labels, a small but clever detail that seemed to set the mood for the night. There was still plenty of the darkness and sensuality that has made the brand so recognizable, but this woman seemed more interested in going out and having a good time. Flower embroidered lace dresses, pastel shifts inspired by antique lingerie, sheer mousseline, exposed bras, ruffled horsehair trims, corsetry, and full skirts brought movement and a slightly undone quality to the runway, while cropped leather jackets and pointed shoulders kept everything grounded in Khaite's tougher world. What I enjoyed most was this new tension between romance and a kind of after dark looseness. You could imagine these clothes at a dinner that turns into drinks and somehow ends much later than planned. Holstein's approach to designing also shifted this season. Where she once found herself asking what could be removed from a garment, this time she wondered what else she could add. References moved between Victorian dress, the 1940s and 1950s, 1920s drop waists, and 1990s slips, but rather than feeling nostalgic, they gave the collection the eclectic quality of someone dressing instinctively for herself.
A trip to Venice with her husband Griffin Frazen became another important part of the story. While sitting at the Gritti Palace, Holstein became fascinated by its ornate ceiling moldings, which eventually informed intricate cutouts and embroideries of flowers and horses. That decorative instinct continued throughout the clothes, with custom lace, individually joined hand knitted flowers, corsetry appearing unexpectedly on the backs of skirts, and delicate finishing in places you might never notice from the runway. The crinoline became another obsession, with Holstein wondering what that historically restrictive structure might look like if a woman wore one today. Instead of recreating it literally, she transformed its volume into peplum belts, internal structures, and playful shapes that moved as the models walked. That movement feels especially important this season. Previous Khaite collections could sometimes have a severity to them, with a woman who looked almost immaculately put together from head to toe. Here, the clothes seemed happier being slightly imperfect. A ruffle could move out of place, something sheer could reveal what was underneath, and a romantic dress could be interrupted by leather. It made all of the extraordinary craft feel less precious and much more alive.
You can sense her allowing the Khaite woman to have more fun with herself too. She is still sensual and incredibly chic, but she no longer feels quite as controlled. There is something more spontaneous about her, almost like the difference between how you look when you leave the house and how you look several hours into a really good night. The sheer dresses, lingerie details, romantic volumes, leather, and slightly imperfect styling all contribute to that feeling. For a brand with such recognizable codes, it is exciting to see Holstein disrupt them without abandoning them. Spring 2027 gives us a Khaite woman who feels softer, looser, more romantic, and perhaps a little more interested in the party than being the most perfectly dressed woman in the room. Among all the looks, below are the ones that stood out as our favorites, best capturing this freer and more playful side of Khaite.
