Schiaparelli Spring 2026 RTW
Images via Schiaparelli
The Schiaparelli Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear collection unfolded as a study in structure and surrealism, a pairing that Daniel Roseberry continues to refine with precision. Staged at the Pompidou Centre before its long renovation, the setting itself underscored how deeply this show was in conversation with art. Roseberry drew inspiration from a Brâncuși exhibition he saw there, setting the tone for a collection that combined sculptural clarity with unexpected illusion.
Surrealism was kept at the heart of the collection. Tailoring, a constant for the house, was reinvented through skirt suits that shifted padding from the inside to the outside, leaving volumes exposed and exaggerated in a way that disrupted tradition. Ribbed knits appeared with oversized ruffles at collars, cuffs, and peplums, turning what might be simple layering into something playful and performative. Even pencil skirts were reimagined with asymmetrical waistlines and cutouts that teased at imbalance while staying undeniably chic.
Fabric experiments heightened this surrealist dialogue. One suit that looked like fur was in fact crafted from thousands of paintbrushes, while a second-skin knit dress carried a jacquard of a nude female form, as if a drawing had been wrapped around the body. Dresses cut on the bias in jersey, mousseline, crystal mesh, and metal mesh were intentionally slashed and reshaped, creating “rips” and windows across the body. The effect was one of precision meeting raw openness, a deliberate embrace of tension.
The palette stayed controlled and striking. Black, white, bone, and crimson dominated, giving discipline to the collection’s sculptural experiments. Gold accents and sculptural accessories punctuated the looks, with bags and jewelry carrying surreal motifs of eyes, noses, and keyholes. Even small details held an artful wit, like jewelry made with LED-lit salt lamp elements that flickered with a sense of fantasy.
Roseberry has spoken about ready-to-wear often veering close to couture, and in this collection that closeness felt like a strength. These clothes were not simplified for ease but heightened for impact, showing that everyday pieces can still carry the charge of ritual, drama, and imagination.
By keeping surrealism alive while paring it into wearable form, Schiaparelli offered a collection that was chic, sculptural, and uncompromising. It balanced art and fashion with sharp clarity and reminded its audience that clothing can be both practical and profoundly imaginative at once.
