Alaïa Spring 2026 RTW
Images via Alaïa
Alaïa’s Spring 2026 show under Pieter Mulier unfolded as an exploration of shape, restraint, and sensuality. The collection balanced precision with movement, creating looks that felt deeply chic without relying on spectacle. Each piece carried a quiet strength that invited attention to its construction from every angle.
The opening looks challenged perception. Fringe leg coverings resembled slim trousers until the models walked, revealing that they ended mid-thigh like stockings. Cocooned garments at first appeared to be minidresses but were revealed as playsuits open at the back, layered with unexpected ease. Split-side trousers tied at the ankle created volume and a sense of fluidity that gave life to the silhouettes.
Fabric was central to the story. Cotton, python, leather, and silk were worked with clarity and respect, never overshadowing the form but always serving it. Some garments clung closely to the body, while others floated more freely, and often the skin was framed with precision through cutouts or open panels that felt daring yet controlled.
The palette was disciplined, with black as the foundation. This sharpened the silhouettes and made the structure of the clothing even more striking. Against this core were deliberate flashes of vibrant color that punctuated the runway, showing how minimalism and surprise can coexist without contradiction.
Mulier described tension as a guiding principle, and it was visible in every detail. The tension between covering and revealing, between strict form and movement, between tradition and reinvention. Raised collars stood tall, jackets were upright and boxy, trousers ribbed or gathered before tying at the ankle. Fringes and split seams introduced texture and play, giving garments nuance without disrupting their clarity.
What emerged was a collection that respected Alaïa’s history while pushing gently outward into new territory. These were clothes sculpted around the body, alive to its movement, never static. The result was a season that proved chic is not about excess but about the mastery of balance and control.
